Bringing home
New kitten checklist: the setup that prevents problems later
Most cat behaviour problems trace back to something that was decided in the first week — usually the litter box. Here's the setup that gets it right the first time.
Compiled from published veterinary and feline welfare guidance, manufacturer specifications and current retailer listings. Not hands-on tested. Sponsored links earn us a commission.
The single most important purchase: a litter box big enough for an adult cat. Most commercial boxes are too small for most cats, and that is the root cause of the majority of "my cat won't use the box" complaints.
1. The litter box, sized correctly
The working rule from feline behaviour specialists is that the box should be about 1.5 times the length of the cat from nose to base of tail. For an average adult cat that's roughly 24 inches of interior length — noticeably longer than the typical 18-inch box sold in pet shops.
Buy for the adult now. Count on two boxes for one cat, in two different locations, not side by side. Cats often prefer to urinate in one and defecate in the other.
Full detail on box styles, sizes and odour control is in our litter box guide.
2. Litter: unscented, clumping, and consistent
Unscented. Scented litters are formulated for humans, not cats, and some cats refuse them outright. Clumping litter lets you remove urine and keeps the box usable longer. Avoid clumping litter for kittens under about eight weeks, which may taste it — ask your vet.
Don't change litter type in the first month. If you want to switch later, do it by mixing old and new in increasing proportions over a week.
3. Kitten food and two bowls
Kittens need roughly twice the calories per pound of an adult cat and should be fed a diet labelled for growth, or for all life stages. Free-feeding dry kitten food is common and practical; add wet food for hydration. Keep food and water bowls apart — many cats drink less when water sits next to food.
4. A carrier that opens from the top
This is the purchase people regret skipping. A hard-sided carrier with a top-loading door lets you lift a frightened or injured cat out without dragging it by the scruff through a small front opening. Top-opening carriers are what veterinary staff prefer, and you will need one for every vet visit for the next fifteen years.
5. Scratching surfaces, more than one type
Cats scratch to shed claw sheaths and to mark territory, and they have preferences for material and orientation. Buy one vertical sisal post and one horizontal cardboard scratcher. If you only offer one, you're guessing. Place them where the cat already scratches, not in a corner you'd prefer.
Do not declaw. It is an amputation of the last bone of each toe and is banned in much of the world. Scratching posts, regular nail trims and scratch-resistant furniture placement solve the actual problem.
6. Set up one room first
Confine the kitten to a single small room for the first three to five days — with the litter box, food, water, a hiding spot and a bed. This is not cruel; it's how the kitten learns where the box is and builds a safe base. Expand access gradually once litter use is reliable.
What you can skip
- A covered box, at first. Traps odour and ammonia; start open.
- An automatic litter box for a kitten. Weight sensors and kittens are a bad combination. Wait until the cat is over about 5 lbs and fully box-trained.
- Scented litter and litter deodorizers. Fragrance is a common refusal trigger.
- A cat bed. Cats sleep anywhere. A folded blanket in a box works identically for free.
- Dental treats and hairball paste on day one. Not for kittens. Ask your vet.
The vet visit
Book within the first week for a wellness check, deworming, flea treatment and to start the kitten vaccination series. Bring any records from the shelter or breeder. Ask specifically about FeLV/FIV testing if the kitten's history is unknown.
Questions people ask
What do I need for a new kitten?
A litter box at least 1.5 times the kitten's body length, unscented clumping litter, two bowls, kitten food, a carrier, a scratching post, and a quiet room to start in. Scratching surfaces and a second litter box matter more than toys.
How many litter boxes should I have?
One per cat plus one, as a rule. For a single kitten that means two boxes in different locations. Most litter-box problems are solved by adding a box rather than changing litter.
What is the most common first-week mistake?
Giving a kitten the run of the house immediately. Start in one small room for three to five days so it can find the litter box reliably and feel secure.
Do kittens need wet food?
Kittens have small stomachs and high energy needs, so free-feeding dry kitten food is common. Adding some wet food helps with hydration and is closer to a natural diet. Ask your vet for quantities.
Is a covered litter box better?
Usually not, especially at first. Covered boxes trap odour and ammonia, and some cats refuse them. Start uncovered; add a cover later only if the cat uses it willingly.
Prices and availability change; confirm current details before buying. PawVerdi earns a commission on sponsored links at no cost to you. General information, not veterinary advice.